Nocino Recipes
NOCINO
June 24 is the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist, the traditional day to harvest green walnuts for making nocino, a delicious liqueur invented at a congress of witches, according to Anna Tasca Lanza, the doyenne of Sicilian cooking. Lanza's witches were Italian, but other countries from Croatia to France to the chilly Teutonic regions equally claim greenwalnut liqueur as their own. I learned to make it at the Institute of Domestic Technology, a cooking school in Altadena, California, where I also teach. When you harvest the nuts-working barefoot, according to some folklore-they are smaller than eggs, smooth to the touch, and crisp like apples, because the shells have not yet hardened. The nutmeats, at this stage, are jelly. Like most liqueurs, nocino is easy but requires patience. You slice the nuts and cover them with strong booze, sugar, and spice, and allow the mixture to infuse for forty days, until it is nearly black. The real test of patience begins after you bottle it. Ten-year-old nocino is said to be the best, and certainly you would never drink this summer's batch before cold weather sets in this fall. Mature nocino has a complex flavor of nutmeg, allspice, coffee, and caramel. Drink it neat as a digestif, or use it to flavor desserts. A few tablespoons of nocino lightly whisked into a cup of heavy cream will cause it to seize, as if magically transformed into cooked custard. The thickened cream is called "posset," and can be used as a sauce alongside cakes or other desserts. My nocino recipe is based on those from the Institute of Domestic Technology and Lanza's Sicilian cookbook _The Garden of Endangered Fruit_. Its fundamentals are green walnuts, 80-proof grain spirits, and sugar. (My secret ingredient is coffee beans.) You can change the aromatics if you like, but use small quantities, because the spices can take over. Green walnuts are sometimes available at farmers' markets, or can be ordered online at www.localharvest.org.
Provided by Kevin West
Yield Yields about 5 cups
Number Of Ingredients 8
Steps:
- 1. Quarter the walnuts and place them in a large glass jar, at least 3-quart capacity. Add the remaining ingredients and stir. Don't worry that the sugar won't immediately dissolve. Seal the jar, and place it in a sunny place for 40 days. The liquid will first turn a sinister green, then black. Once every 10 days, agitate the jar by inverting it a time or two. You can taste the alcohol at any stage and add more aromatics if you like.
- 2. After 40 days, strain the contents of the jar through a damp jelly bag and catch the liquids in a bowl. Funnel the liqueur into scalded bottles, and seal. Store in a cool, dark place for several months; Lanza suggests opening them on All Saints' Day. Before serving, you may want to strain the liqueur through a coffee filter to remove sediments, but it isn't necessary to do so. The liqueur will keep indefinitely without refrigeration.
NOCINO
My friends who live in the countryside were surprised one morning to wake up and see me climbing their walnut tree in my pajamas, swiping the rock-hard, unripe green orbs off the branches. Once I'd picked enough, I climbed down and confessed that I could barely sleep the night before in anticipation of collecting enough of them to make a batch of nocino, an Italian liqueur made from unripe walnuts. It took a while for them to figure out what I was talking about. When I returned a few months later with a tub of Vanilla Ice Cream (page 143) and drizzled inky-brown nocino over each scoop, no one questioned my early-morning motives. If you know someone with a walnut tree, give this liqueur a try. And be sure to give them a bottle as a thank you, so you'll get invited back to gather more green walnuts the following year.
Yield makes 4 cups (1 liter)
Number Of Ingredients 7
Steps:
- Using a chef's knife or cleaver, quarter each walnut. (Use caution, as the husks are tough to cut through. I press a cleaver gently into the skin, then, holding my hands far away from the blade, crack the nut in half on a cutting board.)
- Put the quartered walnuts in a large glass container along with the cinnamon, cloves, lemon zest, and sugar. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add them to the container, then drop in the pod. Add the vodka. Cover and let stand 6 to 8 weeks at room temperature, agitating the container daily.
- When ready to bottle, using a slotted spoon, remove and discard the walnuts and remove the vanilla pod (it can be rinsed, dried, and used for another purpose; see page 14). Pour the mixture through a mesh strainer lined with a double thickness of cheesecloth or a coffee filter, then funnel the nocino into clean bottles and cork tightly.
- Nocino will keep for several years stored in a cool, dry place or in the refrigerator.
- To make NOCINO CUSTARDS , in a medium saucepan, warm 2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream, 1 cup (250 ml) half-and-half, and 9 tablespoons (135 g) sugar, stirring to dissolve the sugar; remove from the heat. In a medium bowl, whisk 6 large egg yolks, then gradually whisk in the warmed cream mixture along with 1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract. Pour the mixture through a mesh strainer into a large measuring cup, then stir in 1/2 cup (125 ml) nocino. Divide the mixture among eight 4- to 6-ounce (125- to 180-ml) ramekins or custard cups set in a roasting pan. Add enough hot water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins, cover tightly with aluminum foil, and bake in a 350°F (175°C) oven until the custards are just barely set, about 30 minutes.
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- Using a vegetable peeler, peel the zest off of the lemon, trying to get as little of the white pitch on the zest strip as possible. Set the zest aside, and place the lemon in the refrigerator for another use.
- Cut the vanilla bean in half length-wise, and then cut it into roughly 1-inch long pieces. Set it aside.
- Begin cutting the walnuts into quarters (taking heed of the staining warnings outlined in the blog post above under "A Note on Green Walnut Harvesting & Cutting") and placing them in the 64-ounce mason jar.
- Try to evenly distribute the spices, lemon zest, and vanilla bean pieces throughout the jar as you tightly layer the green walnuts. When the jar is about 1/4 full, add the granulated sugar. Continue adding the green walnuts, spices, lemon zest, and vanilla bean pieces until you have about 1-inch of headspace from the top of the jar, and all the spices, + lemon zest + vanilla bean bits are incorporated. (It's okay if you have one too many or too few green walnuts, the important thing is to leave a little space at the top for the vodka to cover everything.)
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