KHORESH RIVAS (SAVORY RHUBARB AND BEAN STEW)
In Iranian cuisine, rhubarb is often used in savory dishes rather than in sweet ones. The hearty pinkish-red stalks, which cook down quickly and tenderize, provide just the right amount of tang to herb-based stews like khoresh rivas. Typically, this bright and flavorful dish is prepared with red meat, but hearty butter beans star in this vegetarian version. Fresh herbs are used in impressively large amounts in this cuisine, often holding their own as main ingredients. Mint and parsley are a common combination for the base of many stews. Gently frying the herbs separately before adding them to the stew concentrates their flavors, adding layers of depth. This stew tastes even better the next day. Serve khoresh rivas with rice and a side of plain yogurt.
Provided by Naz Deravian
Categories dinner, lunch, beans, soups and stews, main course
Time 1h30m
Yield 6 servings
Number Of Ingredients 12
Steps:
- Bring a few tablespoons of water to a boil in a small pot. Let the boiling water stand for 2 minutes to allow the temperature to drop slightly while you grind the saffron. Using a mortar and pestle (or a small bowl and the handle of a wooden spoon), grind a pinch of sugar with the saffron to a fine powder (you should have about ¼ teaspoon total). Add 2 tablespoons of the hot water, gently stir, cover and let steep until ready to use.
- In a large pan, heat ¼ cup of olive oil over medium. Add the parsley and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant and slightly darkened, about 8 minutes. Drizzle in more oil if the pan seems too dry. Add the mint and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Keep in mind that mint burns very quickly. Remove from the heat and set aside until ready to use. (You'll reuse this pan.)
- In a large, deep sauté pan with a lid, or a Dutch oven, heat ¼ cup of the olive oil over medium-high. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with a little salt, and reduce the heat to medium. Add the turmeric, stir and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the beans, season well with salt and pepper, and cook, gently stirring without breaking the beans, until the flavors have mingled, about 5 minutes. Taste a bean and make sure it's salted to your liking. The turmeric might feel overpowering at this point, but it will mellow as the stew simmers.
- To the beans, add the parsley and mint mixture (keeping the pan handy), 2 cups water and half of the saffron water, and season with salt. Gently stir and bring to a rapid simmer. Partly cover, reduce the heat to low and simmer, occasionally stirring, for 30 minutes, until the flavors have mingled and the oil rises.
- Add the rest of the saffron water, the lemon juice and 1 tablespoon sugar. Stir and simmer, partly covered, for 15 minutes. Taste as the stew simmers and season as needed. Add more water to the stew if necessary to make it juicier, or remove the lid to reduce the liquid. There should be plenty of liquid to spoon over rice, but it shouldn't be soupy. The stew can be made 1 day in advance up to this point.
- Meanwhile, wipe clean the reserved pan from the herbs. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil to the pan and heat over medium. Add the rhubarb and cook until the color deepens on each side, about 2 minutes per side. You're not fully cooking the rhubarb here; it should maintain its shape and still have a slight bite to it, as it will finish cooking in the stew.
- Gently place the rhubarb pieces in the stew, increase the heat to medium-low and cook, partly covered, until the rhubarb is tender and releases its tangy flavor, about 10 minutes. Don't stir the rhubarb; you want it to maintain its shape and not turn mushy. Taste the stew as it simmers; add more lemon juice for extra acidity, if needed, and more sugar for balance, if you like. Serve over rice.
KHORESH KARAFS (PERSIAN CELERY STEW WITH LAMB)
Most types of Iranian stew, known as khoresh or sometimes spelled khoresht, take hours to prepare and yet more hours to cook. Not this one. Karafs means celery, so here a whole head of crunchy, pale green stalks and two bunches of herbs simmer alongside lamb (or beef) for just under an hour. The sweet flavor of caramelized onions provides the base note to a funky green broth tarted up with lime and lemon. Seasoned with turmeric and saffron, the stew takes on a golden hue. A shallot, sliced and fried until crisp, makes a fine garnish, but is optional. Not optional: a side of buttery steamed rice.
Provided by Daniela Galarza
Categories dinner, soups and stews, main course
Time 1h
Yield 6 servings
Number Of Ingredients 18
Steps:
- Trim or break off thicker parts of the parsley stems and pull mint sprigs and larger leaves from their stems. Discard stems or reserve for another use. Pluck a small handful of leaves and tender sprigs from parsley and mint and set aside for garnish. Chop remaining herbs.
- In a large Dutch oven or pot, heat 1/4 cup oil over medium-high. Season lamb with turmeric, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Add lamb, onion and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions start to caramelize and lamb is evenly browned, about 10 minutes. Add 2 cups water, cover and simmer over medium-low heat for 20 minutes.
- While the lamb simmers, cook the celery: In a skillet, heat the remaining 1/4 cup oil with the butter over medium-high. Once butter foams, add celery, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes. Add chopped parsley and mint, and cook, stirring occasionally, until celery just starts to caramelize, about 8 minutes.
- Add celery and herbs to the Dutch oven, along with lemon juice, lime juice and saffron. Cover, leaving lid slightly ajar, and simmer on low heat until lamb is tender, about 30 minutes.
- While stew cooks, make the fried shallots, if desired: Line a small plate with a paper towel. In a small bowl, sprinkle flour over sliced shallots and toss with a fork. Heat canola oil in a small saucepan or skillet over medium-high until it shimmers slightly, about 1 minute. Fry shallots in oil, flipping once or twice so they cook evenly, until golden brown and crisp, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from oil with a fork, season with a pinch of salt and let drain on paper towel-lined plate until stew is ready.
- Taste stew. Broth should be tart, but balanced. Celery and lamb should be tender but hold their shape. Season to taste with additional salt and pepper. Garnish with reserved herbs and fried shallots. Serve with chelo (Persian-style steamed rice) or buttered, steamed white rice. Stew can be made up to 2 days in advance.
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