SIU MAI OPEN-FACED DUMPLINGS
These open-faced dumplings are a requisite part of the Cantonese dim sum repertoire. In contrast to their dainty size and frilly edge, shāomai (siu mai in Cantonese) are packed with a pork filling that's typically punctuated by earthy mushrooms and crunchy water chestnuts. The dumplings here are made from thin wonton skins that have been cut into circles. Don't confuse them with the Jiangnan version from the area between Shanghai and Nanjing, which is made from hot-water dough wrappers and filled with a sticky rice mixture. Both go by the name shāomai, which literally means "cook and sell," reflecting their perennial popularity. Feel free to add chopped raw shrimp to the filling (cut back on the vegetables) for variety. Any of the wonton fillings can be used, too; but do remember to double the pork and shrimp filling on page 41 or quadruple the shrimp filling on page 70, adding a beaten egg white in each case to insure a smoother texture. The shape of siu mai enables them to hold a lot more filling than other dumplings of the same size.
Yield makes 30 dumplings, serving 6 to 8 as a snack
Number Of Ingredients 16
Steps:
- To make the filling, in a bowl, combine the pork, mushrooms, water chestnuts, and scallions. Use a fork or spatula to stir and lightly mash the ingredients together so they begin to blend.
- Put the salt, sugar, white pepper, cornstarch, soy sauce, rice wine, sesame oil, and egg white into a small bowl and stir to combine well. Pour over the meat mixture, and stir, fold, and mash everything together until they cohere into a compact mass. Cover the filling with plastic wrap and set aside for 30 minutes, or refrigerate overnight, returning it to room temperature before assembling the dumplings. You should have a generous 2 cups of filling.
- Before assembling the dumplings, line steamer trays and/or a baking sheet with parchment paper. For the baking sheet, lightly dust the paper with cornstarch to prevent sticking. Set aside. Hold a skin in one hand. Scoop up about 1 tablespoon of filling with a bamboo dumpling spatula, dinner knife, or fork and position it in the center of the skin, pressing down gently. Pick up the skin and gather and pinch it together to form an open bag (see page 74). Crown the dumpling with some finely diced carrot or a pea. If steaming right away, place each finished dumpling in a steamer tray open side up, spacing them 1/2 inch apart, and 1 inch away from the edge if you are using a metal steamer. Otherwise, place the waiting dumplings on the baking sheet a good 1/2 inch apart. Keeping the finished dumplings covered with a dry kitchen towel to prevent drying, form and fill wrappers from the remaining dough. Dumplings made several hours in advance of cooking should be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated. For longer storage, freeze them on their baking sheet until hard (about 1 hour), transfer them to a plastic container, and keep them frozen for up to 1 month; partially thaw them before steaming.
- To cook, steam the dumplings over boiling water (steaming guidelines are on page 17) for 6 to 8 minutes, until the dumplings have puffed slightly and their skins have become translucent. Remove each tray and place it a top a serving plate.
- Serve immediately with the soy sauce and hot mustard. Invite guests to mix up their own dipping sauce.
WONTON, SIU MAI, AND CANTONESE SPRING ROLL SKINS
One of my favorite sources for fresh wonton skins is a market-cum-noodle shop in Oakland's Chinatown called Hop Yuen. A three-hour round-trip excursion to this shop is worth it to me because I can get pliant, thin skins that are made without coloring or other additives. Those are the benchmark for these homemade ones, which are just as nice, and they come together handily with just a few ingredients and a low-tech, hand-cranked pasta machine. The Chinese term for these wrappers is pí, which literally means skin, and they function as a light, supple casing that protects and contributes texture to a dumpling. You may have a source for excellent Chinese skins, but do try making them yourself. You can control the thickness and cut them to whatever size you like, and it is a fun project. The dough can be made in a food processor or by hand, and a pasta machine makes rolling out the dough an easy and quick job. Moderate-gluten flour, such as Gold Medal all-purpose, produces terrific results that are neither overly chewy nor too soft.
Yield Makes about 2/3 pound to yield 12 large square Cantonese spring roll skins, 48 small square wonton skins, or 48 small round siu mai skins
Number Of Ingredients 5
Steps:
- To make the dough in a food processor, combine the flour and salt in the work bowl and pulse two or three times to blend. Combine the water and egg in a measuring cup and lightly beat. With the machine running, pour the liquid mixture through the feed tube in a thin, steady stream. After all the liquid has been added and the mixture looks crumbly, run the machine for another 20 to 30 seconds, until a large, medium-soft , slightly sticky ball forms (a few crumbly side bits are okay). If the dough doesn't come together, add water by the 1/2 teaspoon. If the dough sticks to the side of the bowl, add flour by the teaspoon to absorb excess moisture. Alternatively, to make the dough by hand, combine the flour and salt in a bowl and then make a well in the center. Lightly beat together the water and egg and then pour into the well. Use a wooden spoon or fork to slowly and steadily stir, moving out from the center toward the rim, to work all the flour into the liquid. Keep stirring as a ragged, slightly sticky mass forms. Then use your fingers to gather and pat the dough together. Add water by the 1/2 teaspoon if the dough feels too stiff or a sprinkling of flour if it is too wet. Regardless of method, transfer the dough and all the bits to a work surface, gather into one ball, and then vigorously knead for about 2 minutes if you used a food processor, or 6 minutes if you made the dough by hand. Properly made dough should be just slightly tacky but not sticky. If the dough sticks to the work surface or your fingers, lightly dust the surface with flour and continue kneading. The finished dough should be fairly smooth and feel as firm as your fingertip. Press on processor dough with a finger, and it should spring back, with no indentation remaining. A faint indention remains on handmade dough, which is not as stiff as its machine-made counterpart. Put the finished dough in a small zip-top bag and expel excess air as you seal it. Set aside at room temperature to rest for at least 1 and up to 3 hours. (The dough can be refrigerated overnight. Return it to room temperature before moving on.)
- To roll out the dough, use a pasta machine. Remove the dough from the bag and cut into 3 equal pieces, replacing 2 of them in the bag and resealing to prevent drying. Flatten a piece of dough with your fingers or a rolling pin to a 1/4-inch-thick rectangle. Use your fingers to dust and then smooth some cornstarch on both sides. Run the dough through the machine at the widest setting (notch 1). Fold the dough into thirds like a letter with one end toward the middle and the other end on top to cover. Press to flatten the dough again so it will easily go through the machine, add another light coating of cornstarch to both sides, and then run it through the machine with one of the unfolded sides entering the rollers first. Repeat the folding, flattening, smoothing, and rolling 3 to 5 times more, until the dough is smooth and elastic. After this initial workout, there's no need to fold the dough again. Set the machine to the next thinnest setting (notch 2). Lightly dust both sides of the dough with cornstarch and then run it through the rollers. Decrease the setting again to notch 3, and pass the dough through once more. Repeat this process 2 more times, reducing the width of the rollers each time and dusting the dough with cornstarch, until the dough is 1/3 2 inch thin. On an Atlas pasta machine, I pause after notch 4 to cut the sheet (now about 18 inches long) in half, lest it become too long and unwieldy. I'm satisfied after notch 5. You should be able to see the shadow of your fingers through the dough when held up in the light.
- The ideal width for the dough sheets is about 6 inches wide. Most home pasta machines yield narrower results so simply put the finished dough sheets on a cornstarch-dusted work surface, smooth the top with more cornstarch, and then use a rolling pin to widen them. Do your best to come close to a 6-inch width. It is fine if the width is not optimal and edges are uneven. When the skins are made into dumplings, imperfections disappear. Put the finished dough sheets on a dry kitchen towel for 8 to 10 minutes, flipping it midway so it dries and firms up enough to easily cut. (If widening the sheets earlier proved difficult, try it after this resting period.) Repeat with the other dough pieces. Cover the finished sheets with a dry kitchen towel.
- To cut the dough sheets, smooth a thin layer of cornstarch over your work surface with your hand. Put the dough on the work surface and smooth a layer of cornstarch on top of it. For Cantonese spring rolls (also known as egg rolls), cut across the sheets at about 6-inch intervals to create large squares. For wontons, use a ruler and sharp knife to cut 3-inch squares. For siu mai, use a 3-inch-round cutter to stamp out as many wrappers as you can from the sheets, dipping the cutter in cornstarch as you work to prevent sticking. Stack the finished skins, wrap them loosely in parchment paper, and put them in an airtight zip-top plastic bag, squeezing out any excess air before you seal the bag. Lay the bag flat on a plate or in a plastic container. Refrigerate for up to 3 days. You can freeze the wrappers, though they are best when fresh. These wrappers may turn grayish in the refrigerator, but their flavor and texture will remain excellent.
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